New York Fashion is over but that doesn’t mean it is for me. Between starting a new job and keeping up with my freelance stuff, the amount of work has doubled and my brain is in overdrive with fashion shows. Analyzing every little detail, writing, researching- it could go on for days and days if I let it. Considering I have 3 more weeks of fashion overkill, I will continue to embrace it. Some thoughts:
Marc Jacobs did a fine job of taking everything under the sun and putting together a modest collection of mix and match separates. A little bit of old-school Perry Ellis grunge, straw hats, and bustled skirts made me think of the working class woman. “Suffragette City” by David Bowie would have been the perfect song to accompany his show, but he chose Gershwin instead. It wasn’t a bad choice, considering the collection was also a little prim and proper which is what classical music is to me, in a good way. There was also something kind of naughty about the clothes and the styling. When you’re that covered up, especially in below the knee skirts, it all becomes a fantasy.
Kate and Laura Mulleavy have got to have the most far-out imaginations. Their collections are like narratives and when the show is over it’s like you’ve arrived to your final destination as a completely different person. I sound all new-age but if you check out Rodarte you’ll see what I mean. I love that they continued their story from last season, keeping the Japanese slasher girl in the picture and then adding Stars Wars to the mix to give it a futuristic touch. It was somewhat of a fairytale- the muted colors, the flowy chiffon dresses, the bright orange eyes- it made me want to run through a forest.
Nobody does color like Jonathan Saunders. I thought his collection was the most unique and I can’t think of another designer who can make a show successful just on the use of color alone. Turquoise was a dominant color throughout as were bright red and green, and he also paired navy blue with black- my favorite color combination. Not only did he succeed with his palette, but his silhouettes were also right on. Snug Sgt. Pepper jackets were pure perfection worn with chiffon skirts that had just the right amount of volume.
Rachel Comey does it for me every time. Her collection reminded me of Prada a few years back- the metallic shorts and bra set that was photographed in black and white on Anouck Lepère. The look of the show was very 1940’s housewife chic. I loved the pants, the prints, and the colors. I got a latin vibe from it- I think it was the hair and the lipstick. There wasn’t anything in the collection I wouldn’t wear.
Last but certainly not least, Proenza Schouler. This was my absolute favorite show and my most favorite collection from the boys. They took it to another level. Raquel Zimmerman in a leather cone top with high waisted pants? Forget about it. To me, this show was the definition of modern. Structured shoulders, leather jumpsuits, round frame sunglasses, parted hair, zippers everywhere, transparent pants–it was a strong collection for a tough, downtown girl who likes to make a statement.